Written from behind the counter

Three subjects, roughly. First, the fish: what actually changes when it comes straight from Tsuruga or Tosa-Saga instead of through a market, and why that shows up in sashimi before anything else. Second, the fire: the iron plate comes up hot and fast, which is why the surface of a bonito chars while the inside stays raw — and why we salt it rather than dress it. Third, the sake: sixteen labels is too many to read standing up, so we write about how to narrow it down by what you are eating rather than by the name on the bottle. These are the questions we actually get asked across the counter, written down afterwards. Where we are not sure, we say we are not sure.